By Trudy and Stella

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, although the smallest in Uganda, has a lot to offer. First of all, the park, situated in the southwest corner of the country, is the habitat of almost half of the world's remaining population of mountain gorillas. Secondly, Mgahinga consists of three extinct volcanoes covered with tropical rainforest. It is a big challenge for hikers who are physically fit to climb them. Those who accept the challenge can choose between the volcanoes Mount Muhavura (the guide), Mount Gahinga (small pile of stones) and Mount Sabinyo (old man's teeth). We decide to climb Mt. Mgahinga.

It's still very early when we leave Travellers Rest Hotel. Our car is swallowed by the darkness. We take the road to the park, that is, if you can call it a road. Our driver has difficulties to avoid all the holes and bumps. After one hour of rocking we enter the park. It is still dark, and cold. We are heading for Mt. Gahinga. Its altitude is ‘only’ 3474m, with an elevation gain of 1100m. Piece of cake, so it seems. Mt. Muhavura (4127m) is too high for us, as we would have to climb 1700m and the third volcano, Mt. Sabinyo (3669m) demands even three peaks to climb. The trail takes you up a ridge to peak one. If you are to continue, the climb to the second peak involves walking a ridge with breathtaking precipices into the gorges of Rwanda and Uganda. Finally, the hike up to the third peak is steep, with several ladders. But once on top, you will be in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda at the same time! Mt. Sabinyo is without any doubt the most challenging and interesting volcano to conquer. And how great it must be to tell your friends you reached over 4000m, touching the sky standing at the summit of Mt. Muhavura. On a clear day you are rewarded with a view on the peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains, lake Edward in Queen Elizabeth National Park and the other volcanoes. I am challenged by the idea, but my girlfriend talks some sense into me. She is probably right: I will never make either one of the three peaks. So, we are heading for Mt. Gahinga. The mountain is waiting for us. So let’s go.

One guide, two tourists and ten heavily armed soldiers, that is what our group consists of. In amazement we wonder: do we run any risks, what are all the soldiers for? It turns out that the Uganda government is very strict in protecting its visitors. Whether we like it or not, the soldiers are coming with us. We are not quite sure what to think of it, so we just laugh a little. Must be nerves.

The climate on the three volcanoes is very different from that of the lowlands below. When you reach the top you will have walked through five vegetation zones. The temperature decreases by about 1. 6 degrees Celsius for every 300m you climb. The first hour we see a lot of black-eyed Susan (thunbergia milbraediana) and the red-hot poker (kniphophia thomsoni). The slope requires a lot of climbing already. Thank God. The guide stops for our first rest. I clearly see the Mt. Muhavura and Mt. Sabinyo. They seem to nod at me and wish me good luck. I smile.

Then, suddenly we are walking in the bamboo forest. Complete silence everywhere. Oh, I love it. Far off we hear the rare golden monkey; if you are lucky, you can spot him. In former days, the local people just went to the forest and cut what bamboo they needed. Nowadays, they are encouraged to grow bamboo gardens on their own plots in order to preserve the monkey’s habitat. We take some pictures and enjoy being here. We listen to the guide who tells us interesting things about the forest and the vegetation. We are optimistic, it can’t be that hard to climb a volcano.

But when we leave the bamboo forest behind, we almost loose heart. There, in front of us, the mountain reveals itself in it’s full glory. I thought we had already come a long way, but it appears we have reached nothing yet. I look up in astonishment and with disbelief. "Now the real climbing starts", our guide says cheerfully. "Come on, there is only some two hours more to go" he adds reassuringly. "You will make it." The real climbing? What does that mean?

As the trail narrows, the slope gets steeper. With every step I breath more heavily. With every step my legs are feeling more tired. I only look at the few yards in front of my shoes. Looking up is a bad idea, as the only thing I see is a steep slope with many, many steps to go. My spirits become low by looking at the slope, so I look at the ground again. For an endless periods of time, I only see muddy, slippery steps. The guide is right: the real climbing has started.

I’m not sure I want this. I regret my decision to have come here at all. The only thing I want tot do now is lie down and rest for a very, very long time. The guide looks at me with a sort of reassuring face. Is there hope in his eyes? He tells me:. "You’ll make it, I know. I can tell."

What else is there to do but believe him. The intervals between the resting periods become shorter every time. Who will move my legs? Then, another surprise is awaiting us. The steps are replaced by ladders. I pull myself up the first one, I manage to take the second one as well, but the next ladder is too much. The trail has changed into a steep slope of rock, mud and slippery branches. It is all there is. Whose idea was this? It could not have been mine. The guide waits very patiently for us when we hold for probably the hundredth time. "Take as much rest as you like, we are not in a hurry. You will make it." He smiles. "Are you not tired?", I ask him. "No."

And off we go again. I really have no idea whether we are close to the top or only halfway. I don not have the guts to ask the guy. What if he says: halfway. Ladders come and go. With the helping hand of the guide I manage to pull through. Finally, God is on our side again. The guide tells us: here the climbing stops. Why, I wonder. "We are at the top", he says. One more step to go. I am there. I have made it.

The view is stunning. The intoxicating beauty of the flora is astonishing. In front of us a swamp reveals itself. It has beautiful colors yellow and orange. Once, there was a crater lake on this top, like the Mt. Muhavura still has, but with time it transformed into a swamp. All around us the giant lobelia and the giant senecio flourish. Small trees with big cabbage-like leaves and yellow flowers dominate the landscape. I have never seen something like this in my life. I can not decide where to look. On either side the Mt. Muhavura and Mt. Sabinyo say hello again. I can see Rwanda now. It looks green, just like the southwest corner of Uganda. After a long rest we start heading down again.

After six hours we return where we left early this morning. Before I touch the grass I look up again. There it is, Mt. Gahinga. I just cannot believe I climbed it. It is my first mountain and probably my last. No. For sure, my last.

Trudy and Stella. Email: vrouwen28@hetnet.nl